Since circular saws are the conveyable version of a table saw, they are not meant to be fixed to a table. However, the portability can be a disadvantage if you are trying to make precision cuts such as miters or other angles. To help you make more spoton cuts, you can build a circular saw table in your own shop.
Step 1
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Gather your materials which contain a 3/4" thick medium density overlay (Mdo) in a 36"X16" sheet, a 36"X8 1/2" piece, a 36"X1" piece, and two 36"X1 1/2 " pieces, a pencil, ruler, jigsaw, eight strips of 1"X2" wood, nails, hammer, drill, 1/4" and 1/2" drill bits, screws, circular saw, 1/2" dowel, speed square, and 1/4" carriage bolt.
Step 2
Mark the median 3/4" in from the edge on the long side of the 36"X16" Mdo.
Step 3
Using the ruler, mark a radius from this median on that front edge. Next, draw a level line 10 inches from and parallel to the back edge.
Step 4
To cut out the table that you just marked, use the jigsaw to cut down the 10" line, nearby the radius, and down the 10" line on the other side. You now have the shape of the table.
Step 5
Flipping the table to its back, nail six strips of the 1"X2" wood to all of the level edges as the support for the table.
Step 6
Go back to the former median mark on the topside and drill a 1/2" hole in which the dowel will be located to serve as the pivot for the arm.
Step 7
Down from the hole on this topside, attach two more 1"X2" strips 10 inches long to serve as the fence for the guide.
Step 8
Take the two pieces of Mdo that are 36"X1 1/2" and cut a 45-degree angle off of each end. With the angles facing inward, screw these two pieces onto the ends of the 36"X8 1/2" piece of Mdo. This makes the carriage with spacers.
Step 9
Screw the 36"X1 1/2" Mdo to the edge of the 36"X4" Mdo at a 90-degree angle to originate a guide lip. Attach this assembly to the support blocks of the carriage with screws. To make the opposite side of the guide, screw the 36"X2" Mdo to the other side of the carriage. The circular saw's blade should pass straight through the gap as it follows the guide lip, but you may need to adjust the gap width for your single saw.
Step 10
Now, with the saw against the guide lip and the blade in the gap, fix an opposite lip to keep the saw level as it passing straight through the carriage by screwing on a 36"X1" strip of Mdo on the opposite side.
Step 11
Flip this carriage over and part down 7 inches from the top edge. Mark the median of the width at this point and drill a 1/2" hole for the dowel.
Step 12
Removing the upper part of the carriage, place the base under the table and tap the 1/2" dowel straight through both the table and carriage, not allowing the dowel to stick out past the carriage blocks. Then, reattach the upper part of the carriage.
Step 13
Slide the carriage arm as far right as possible. Putting the speed square in the middle of the arm and the fence at a 45-degree angle, drill a 1/4" hole straight through the upper assembly and tabletop to acquire the arm with a carriage bolt. Do the same at the 90-degree and 45-degree left angle to make repeated angle cuts.
Your circular saw table is ready to use. Place the wood to be cut against the fence. Line up the arm to the angle that you want. Put the circular saw in the guide arm with a depth set so that you will only cut 1/8" into the table. Make your cut. You can now make spoton angle cuts time after time with your circular saw table.
You Can Build Your Own Circular Saw Table








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